Nepal Day 5: The Push to Namche Bazaar

Before we left for Nepal we had lunch on a farm with some friends. Through them I met a man who had trekked to Everest Base Camp 8 years ago and told me that the day he pushed to Namche Bazaar was the hardest - it's one of the biggest gains in altitude we would have in a single day. It felt like our first real day of trekking and I knew we were in for it. 


My favorite was walking past all the locals along the trail. These people are living simple and growing their own food - themes that I have been striving for in my own life. But they're not doing it because it's trendy rebellion against the consumer culture I'm surrounded by (and can choose to participate in whenever I please). It's just their way of life and it's not always this picture-perfect neo-pioneer minimalist scene (the kind of aesthetic simplicity I tend to fantasize about). A good part of this trek through Nepal was spent thinking about the balance - the life we want to live and the world we live in. The choices we have the opportunity to make. 

We shared the trail with yaks. I grew terribly fond of the yaks (and cow/yak hybrids known as the dzo) and took a picture of almost every single one we crossed paths with. I think I have 1,200 photos of yaks.

As much as I loved the stunning views of the Himalayas (usually only visible in the morning, in the afternoons the clouds would roll in) I really loved walking through the little villages. Most people and children did not want to have their photos taken but they were all hard-working, ruddy-cheeked and beautiful. 
The trek was hard. The first half of our day we only gained 200M and had 600 more to go. This means the second half of our day was spent walking up a very steep terrain. But I was feeling solid and happy. And at the half-way point our guides took us off the beaten path and there we found our first view of Everest. It was a lot like meeting a celebrity where you feel small in comparison and you kind of can't believe your eyes - and you know they could give two shits about you. That's how I felt about Everest. That all this love I have for a mountain was unrequited but in the meantime I'm getting all this love from Nepal. Like maybe my crush has shifted a little bit to something a bit more real. Regardless, I had laid eyes on what I came to see but it still seemed very far away.


So yes. The very steep trek was hard but when your only focus in the whole world is putting one foot in front of the other and breathing it's really not so hard. I was looking forward to this part. I was in the moment and it felt good.
We finally made it into Namche Bazaar exhausted - we were so excited arrive to the place we would call home for the next 3 nights. The town was alive with merchants, bakeries, locals and trekkers and I felt lucky to be a part of that energy. I had decided that my one big purchase for the trek would be a yak bell and there were plenty to choose from.
We settled in at our tea house lodge and I quickly found myself sick to my stomach, exhausted and wanting nothing to do with food. Jeremy was concerned but I figured I would just sleep it off and hit the ground running the next morning.






Eee!
Keep it coming.
BEAUTIFUL photographs. Stunners!
a cliffhanger!!! ;)
Haha - I didn't mean for it to sound dramatic like that. ;) Not to spoil it but I was fine.
I'm so suprised to see the villages. I'm not sure why, but I imagined you guys trekking up the side of a mountain with no civilization in sight, sleeping in tents along the way. I'm captivated by how beautiful everything is.
oh no! what happened? this is the part in the book where we are scared that the protagonist dies... although she's narrating so that would be the end of the book... Hmmm.
I love that you are taking your time with the story. I would not be able to help myself from telling the whole thing in one shot. this way is better tho. keep us comin back for more. you should get some sponsors, make some moola! :P
I am really enjoying these posts - I feel like I'm on this adventure with you, and I get goosebumps every time!
I agree with Jasmine, a cliffhanger!
Have I mentioned how much I love this? No? I LOVE this!
I love the part about falling in love with Nepal when your crush has always been on Everest. I have been crushing on Everest for years. NOt sure if I will ever make it to Nepal, but I wonder if my reaction would be similar.
I am so loving this day by day account of your adventure, I seriously look forward to each day's installmemt.
Monica - It almost made me sad. I had imagined seeing Everest and crying. That's the kind of emotional response I had planned out in my head and it just didn't happen that way.
That said, seeing it through that clearing was very special and exciting, nonetheless.
You should ABSOLUTELY go to Nepal if you can. I would recommend it to just about anyone.
These photos are fantastic, as is your storytelling. I love the the way you describe your feeling as you approached Everest. I actually held my breath a little and pictured myself in your position. Talk about surreal.
I cannot fathom all you have taken from this experience.
Anxious to hear more.
I felt the same way when I saw Machu Picchu. I was impressed by the sight of it, but was more profoundly touched by the people, their way of life, their resilience. I love the feeling of gaining a new perspective on life, that you can only get from glimpsing someone elses life so different from your own.
Next chapter please! I'm on the edge of my seat.
1) I don't think Peter has ever shown me his Nepal photos and somehow I never imagined it looking this beautiful! Consider my interest piqued.
2)Neo-pioneer - woot!
Amazing story telling and incredible photographs.
Are you using the miniature feature on your camera or is that a PS Action of sorts? Either way, tres fabulous.
Can't wait for the next bit!
Esther - I am tweaking the photos to enhance them a little but there was no "miniature" setting or filter/action that I'm running over them. I'm glad you like them, though!
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