After almost a full 24 hours of flights, connections and layovers Jeremy and I landed in Katowice, Poland. We walked out of the airport and the sun was abnormally bright - kind of like when you walk out of a dark movie theater in the middle of the afternoon. And we had no idea what to do next. So we walked back in to the airport - and while I was starving I was too embarrassed to buy anything and becoming increasingly self-conscious about my limited Polish vocabulary (at this point I knew how to say "hello", "good evening", "thank you" and "happy".) Finally we asked a couple of really nice women at the information desk how to get to the city center and they told us to take the bus, which leaves in an hour. So we waited an hour, hopped on the bus and took it about an hour into the city. Except I have no idea how long it actually took because I basically passed out from exhaustion until we hit our destination.
Act 2. A Nap
From there we walked to our hotel and I became overwhelmed with gratitude for Jeremy's sense of direction. We checked in and the girls at the counter giggled at our attempts to thank them in Polish. We showered, brushed our teeth, stripped off our clothes and slept for a solid 2 hours. Our alarm went off at 6PM and we both felt disoriented and drugged but forced ourselves to get out of bed and go out to dinner.
Now, I'm sharing all of the boring details of getting from the airport to our hotel to a restaurant because this kind of sets the stage for the theme of our entire trip: "figuring it out". Seemingly simple tasks would take forever because A) we're in a new place and B) we don't speak the language.
And that leads us to dinner. We checked out a place around the corner from our restaurant. We sat down to a menu in Polish (no English available) with a waitress who spoke very little English. She barely understood the word "vegetarian" enough to tell us we were shit out of luck. So for maybe the first time ever, we walked out of a restaurant.
Fortunately, around another corner there were lots of restaurants on a strip with patio seating and menus posted outside. We settled on one that had a few items we could eat. We ordered a couple of beers, fried Camembert with jam and pierogies (a dumpling stuffed with potatoes and cottage cheese). We were dead tired but happy to be there. That's when a prison-tattooed man sitting at a large table for 8, by himself, catches our eye. He lifts his glass to cheers and begins talking to us in Polish. We tell him we don't understand but we smile, lift our glasses and move on with our own conversation. But then homeboy won't stop talking to us - in a language we clearly do not understand. Jeremy tells me he has to pee and I tell him not to leave me at that table by myself. I might get on a boat with a stranger but this incident made it clear that I still have some sort of instinctual judge of character going on. So that's when I get up to go the bathroom. I take my time to wash my hands and stare at my bloodshot eyes in the mirror.
When I return I ask Jeremy if anything interesting happened. Apparently, homeboy gets up to sit right next to Jeremy. He puts his hand on his leg and proceeds to have a heart-to-heart with Jeremy. In Polish. Jeremy kept replying "Nie rozumiem." which translates to "I don't understand." The host steps in and tells the guy to leave Jeremy alone - he goes back to his table and that's when I return. I see two girls are now enjoying dessert and wine at a table nearby. When ol' boy starts chatting them up they completely ignore him - and that's when I decide I will to when he directs his energy back towards us. He starts getting louder and angrier - and that's when the host tells him to leave. I understood a stern "Do widzenia proszę" - "Goodbye, please." At that time dude stands up and shoves the big umbrella over our table as hard as possible, gets up in the host's face and finally saunters off. A waiter from a sushi place across the street comes over and shakes our host's hand. They laugh it off as do Jeremy and I.
The first of many Polish beers, cheese, bread and pierogies.
Act 3. Continued with A Life Lesson
The scenario itself wasn't really that dramatic and if something like this happened at home I wouldn't really think twice about it. I certainly wouldn't blog about it. But what was so rad about it was that this dude could have been saying the most vulgar and crass things - and all we could do was shrug and laugh it off. Not only did I not understand what this guy was saying - I didn't care. The power of language became so clear - but so did our ability to choose a response. It was a fairly deep lesson to learn over a jet-lagged dinner.
The first of many beautiful churches we would stroll by on our way from Point A to Point B.
After only a few hours of sleep over the past 36 hours we make our way back to our hotel and crash hard.
Tomorrow we go to Auschwitz.
Dave and I are convinced that one of the reasons we're so enamored with the idea of living in Prague is that most of the time, we don't understand what people are saying.
ReplyDelete"They could be talking about the stupidest, most mundane thing in the world, BUT I DON'T KNOW THAT," Dave says. "How great is that?!"
It's nice to hear that even a seasoned traveler still gets nervous over seemingly simple things like ordering food. I don't know if I could hack it on that long of a flight, but I'd love to eat pierogi in Poland some day.
ReplyDeleteSarah // Silly Grrl
Mel - Ha! Exactly! But the language of kindess and asshole is still pretty universal, huh?
ReplyDeleteSarah - It's sweet that you call me a seasoned traveler but this was my first time in Europe! I've only been to Nepal, Mexico and Canada before this trip. But yes - it just felt like we had to figure EVERYTHING out. Nothing was easy... But I've learned since that it's nothing to be nervous about. A smile goes a long way.
Such beautiful church pics! Yeah, language bummer, but ya know, in my travels I have found a universal language of a smile and the right tone. Doesn't always work, especially with that guy you met! Can't believe that you are going to Auschwitz ... I have been to Antarctica as my 1st choice "adventure", but that is my 2nd choice, not at all for the adventure, but to pay tribute to those many, many who suffered & died there ... Will be so interested in reading about your impressions ... you are so articulate & able to be so evocative about your experiences ...
ReplyDeleteI'm so excited for tomorrow!!! And thanks for finally getting this up :)
ReplyDeleteI'm a Canadian living in Malta where they speak English and Maltese. Not knowing what people around me are saying 50% of the time is so liberating. Sometimes ignorance really is bliss.
ReplyDeleteSounds like an amazing trip! I can't believe you didn't have any real plans in mind. You two crazy kids! ;) The only time I've been to Europe was with my high school history class; it was very structured with daily itineraries and curfews! We did a two-week tour of Germany, Switzerland, Austria and France, spending a couple of days in each place. The theme of the trip was "fairytale Europe," and we toured many castles, such as the "Sleeping Beauty" castle. It was a whirlwind. One of the most haunting memories from the trip was visiting Dachau. I'll never forget it. Oh, and we also went to Hitler's "Eagle's Nest". Looking forward to more stories from your trip! xo.
ReplyDeletei really admire this spirit of adventure....i get very preoccupied with not 'missing anything' that i totally exhaust myself.
ReplyDeleteactually now that i think about it i think i could handle a itinerary free vacation OR a language free vacation but not both simultaneously!
ReplyDeleteOh SHUT THE FRONT DOOR this Pierogi and Wheel Cheese intercontinental indulgence is too much. Gah!
ReplyDeleteYour photos are gorgeous, your writing brings all of us into the moment. Thank you for the wonderful experience!
ReplyDeleteThis is so amazing. I'm loving each post already.
ReplyDeleteI lived in Germany for several years and that life lesson couldn't be more accurate. I always felt that way in Germany. Even though I spoke a little more German than your Polish, I was definitely not fluent. I found myself caring so little about things that went on around me. I didn't feel any sort of wonder about glances in my direction or what people may or may not be saying. It very much just didn't matter.
I also visited Dachau and the Eagle's Nest. If you can get to Berchtesgaden, Austria, it will not disappoint.
What an exciting adventure for you. Can't wait to read more.
What a strange situation that must've been! It would've been awkward and annoying enough in English, but in another language, it's almost comical. ;) Glad you got the situation figured out though (and glad you found a place to eat!). Do people know much English there?
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